Episode 3 is the first proper metalwork episode. The Mk1 shell is bolted square on a jig, the rust and old accident damage are cut out, and a dummy Cosworth engine is offered up. Then Retropower’s designer walks through the second round of interior design for Gordon Murray.
Video: Retropower on YouTube · watch “Gordon Murray's MK1 Escort - Retropower Build Episode 3” on YouTube
What happens in Episode 3
On the jig (1:17). Six pairs of towers bolt down to the jig bed, with symmetrical fixtures holding the shell dead centre. That stops the shell moving once lots of metal is cut out, and it means any point on the jig can be used to measure side to side.
Bulkhead and front end (2:43). The heater intake area was badly rusted inside, with no factory paint at all. Rather than just patch it, Retropower remade the bulkhead with a large opening and a ring of threaded inserts, so a bolt-on cover gives access to seal and paint the inside. That opening will also duct air to the new heater box. While they were there, they trimmed the upper bulkhead seam by around 8 mm to clear the back of the cylinder head. The front panel is off, and the old impact damage behind it has been straightened. The radiator and oil-cooler routing will be finalised once the engine is in.
Rear quarters (5:13). Both quarters are off. That let the team clean and epoxy-prime the inner structure, remake the inner sill closing plate and a section of boot-floor edge, and prime the hidden faces before the new quarters went on. They’re butt-joined at the pillar and spot-welded elsewhere as Ford did. The arch lips are left free for the big arch tubs to come.
Accident damage (7:15). The hinge pillar on the damaged side measured about 15 mm out against the jig and was pushed back with hydraulic straightening.
Engine mock-up (8:53). The final engine’s pistons weren’t ready, so Cosworth lent a similar Duratec with throttle bodies and a dry sump. It’s a tight fit: bonnet clearance is limited, the steering rack stops it going lower, and a water connection at the back eats space. Next up is a seat and pedal fitting with Gordon.
Interior design (11:18). Designer Dean McConnell explains the dash. Gauges sit across the front with heater controls below, and four Audi A3 vents go on the dash top instead of two. There’s engraved lettering instead of warning-light symbols, and brushed aluminium inspired by 1970s hi-fi. There are just four knobs, for servo-driven heating and the headlights. The team also covers the hunt for a reclining low-back bucket seat, a raised luggage area behind the front seats with a tubular crossmember that stiffens the shell, rear damper access panels, and fuel-cap concepts.
Parts, tools and suppliers mentioned
- Chassis jig with bolt-down towers and custom fixtures
- Threaded inserts for a bolt-on heater intake panel
- Epoxy primer for hidden faces, spot welder
- Loan Cosworth Duratec (throttle bodies, dry sump) for mock-up
- Audi A3 dash vents and a servo-controlled heater system
Lessons for your own Mk1
- Mount it square before you cut. A jig, or at least a solid datum, stops the shell moving and shows hidden accident damage.
- Design out rust traps. If an area rotted because it couldn’t be painted, make it accessible next time.
- Prime what you’ll never see again. Do the inner quarters and sill closing plates while the outer panels are off.
- Mock up the engine early. Bonnet, rack and bulkhead clearances decide where everything else goes.
- Fewer controls can look better. Retropower cut the dash down to a handful of quality knobs.
Mk1 context
The heater intake trap shown here is a classic Mk1 weak spot. Water runs into an unpainted cavity behind the scuttle, which is why so many Escorts rot below the windscreen.
Related
- Series hub: all Retropower Gordon Murray Mk1 episodes
- Background: the complete history of the Mk1 Ford Escort
- More builds on video: Mk1 Escort build videos